by: Lou
Krieger
In Part 1 we explored various reasons to raise, including: raising
to get more money in the pot, raising to eliminate opponents, and raising
to get a free card on a more expensive street. Now you’ll learn
how to raise to define your hand and how to raise to prevent your opponent
from getting a free card. We’ll also summarize all the main points
covered in these two articles.
Raising To Define Your Hand
I recall a game where I was last to act with kings, and reraised a very
strong player to my right. The flop was Ac-Kh-4s. My opponent bet, I
raised, and he reraised. Because I know his play so well, I was sure
he would not have raised if he flopped a set of aces. He would have
checked the flop, called my bet and checkraised on the turn. I put him
on A-K, with a smaller possibility he held a hand like Ah-Jh. The turn
card was the 6h. He bet, and I raised. He called. If he had flopped
a set of aces, he would have had reraised, since a set of aces would
have been the best possible hand on the turn.
Now I figured him for A-K. Since my opponent also knows my play very
well, I didn’t believe he would have called with less than two
pair. I was also quite sure my raise told him I had at least two pair,
and more likely a set. When the 8h fell on the river he bet, I raised,
and he reraised. It was then I knew my assessment was wrong. He could
not possibly have A-K. He had to have entered the pot with a hand like
A-J suited and tried to steal the pot with his bet on the turn -- since
he had top pair with a reasonably good kicker as well as an opportunity
to draw out if another heart fell on the river. That’s exactly
what happened. He made the nut flush. Although my analysis was correct,
I was too late to save myself any money, and he won a big pot.
With the benefit of the instant replay described above, you can see
how each of us, by virtue of our bets, raises and reraises, were defining
our hands in terms of what we presumed each other was holding. Although
I defined my set of kings against the possible hands he could have been
holding, I incorrectly assumed he made two pair. While this was a costly
error in judgment, you can learn something at my expense about how to
raise and reraise to define your own hand against what you suspect your
opponent might have.
Raising To Prevent a Free Card
Just as it is correct in certain situations to raise on the flop in
order to gain a free card on the turn, it is also correct to raise in
order to prevent your opponents from getting a free, or relatively inexpensive
card.
Here’s an example. You hold A-10 in fifth position. On the flop
only three other players are active: the big blind, and seats eight
and nine. The flop comes A-9-7. The big blind bets. With no raise before
the flop, there’s no way to determine what he might be holding.
You may be outkicked if he holds A-K, A-Q or A-J. If he holds A-9 or
A-7 or 9-7 you’re also beaten. On the other hand, he may be betting
with A-6, trying to win the pot right there if no one else holds an
ace.
While you have some idea about the players in seats eight and nine,
you’re not certain you have the best hand. However, it’s
fair to assume that if either seats eight or nine had A-K, A-Q or A-J,
they probably would have raised before the flop. While they may have
called with a hand like A-5 suited, its more likely they’re holding
connectors or a small pair. It is also possible one of them flopped
a set, although the odds do not favor it. If they did, however, you’ll
not hear from them now. They’ll wait and raise on the turn --
when the bets double.
What should you do in this position? While calling is not a bad idea,
raising is probably better. If the players in seats eight or nine hold
hands like 10-9 or 9-8, they may call a single bet on the flop, in hopes
of catching a miracle card on the turn, or perhaps picking up a straight
draw. However, if they are reasonably prudent players, they will not
call a raised pot with second or third pair and little else to support
it.
Is this a form of raising to thin out the field? Yes, it is. But in
this case, you’re doing so after the flop has defined -- or partially
defined -- your opponents hands. If it’s the kind of flop which
provides some help to your opponents, enough so they might stick around
in hopes of outdrawing you if they can see another card for free, or
for no more than a single bet, then a raise which forces them to fold
is correct.
If your raise forces seats eight and nine to fold, you are heads up
against the blind, and you have the added advantage of acting last on
the turn and the river. You may also have the best hand. Unless the
blind has flopped a big hand, like two pair or a set, he is probably
not going to bet into you on the turn. This gives you the opportunity
to check behind him. If he isn’t holding much of a hand, and is
an aggressive player, checking behind him may elicit a bluff on the
river, which you can easily snap off.
If he is not a particularly aggressive player, but tends to call too
much with too little, you can bet the turn and the river without much
fear of a raise, but with the certainty he will call you with very marginal
hands.
If, however, one of your opponents has flopped either a set or two
pair, your strategy will fail. You’ll be called on the flop, and
if you bet the turn you’ll be looking at a checkraise. If that’s
the case, you’re probably better off releasing the hand at that
point, since it is hard to envision anyone raising with a hand worse
than yours, unless they are fond of bluff-raising. Since you just don’t
see too many bluff raises in lower limit games, you might as well assume
you’re beaten and save your money.
These five reasons to raise often act in concert with one another.
While it is logical to raise solely to limit the field, it is seldom
worth a raise just to define your hand -- and for no other reason. But
by raising to limit the field, you will always gain some information
about how your hand stacks up against the competition.
If, for example, you’ve raised with a pair of tens and are reraised,
there’s bad news and good news in the air. You may well have achieved
your goal of going heads up against one opponent, but you may also be
beaten. If two overcards fall on the flop, you ought to assume you are
beaten. The good news, scant as it may be, is that you’ve learned
enough about the quality of your opponent’s hand to save money
by folding as soon as he bets the flop.
Summary
Raising can be a dicey proposition. Most of the time you raise you will
not be entirely sure you have the best hand. Moreover, you’ll
encounter some opponents who take raising so personally that their response
to any raise is simply to raise back -- even when their hands don’t
warrant it. Although they’re making the wrong play, it can sew
seeds of confusion in your own mind. You’ll ask yourself; “Just
what could they be holding?”
This is another reason why it is so critically important to know your
opponents. Once you get a fix on their play, you’ll be able to
tell who is likely to be out of line when they raise or reraise, and
which players usually have the hand they represent when they take similar
action.
If you’re going to be a selectively aggressive player, you can’t
let the fear of a reraise stop you from raising when proper strategy
calls for it. Most of the time you’ll be correct in your assessment
of the relative value of your hand versus that of your opponent. Sometimes
you’ll misread them, like I did in the example cited earlier.
Not to worry. Poker is a game where you’ll seldom be making decisions
with 100% of the fact available to you. It is a game of decisions based
on incomplete information. In fact, if you waited to raise until you
held the nuts, you would never lose a big pot like I described, but
your net winnings would be substantially less. Why? Because you were
unwilling to take a risk warranted by your hand and the play of your
opponents.
Remember, in poker your batting average, while important, is not critical.
You want to be selective, but not so selective that you pass on money
you could have won, but for the fact that you didn’t have absolute
certainty about the value of your hand compared to your opponent’s.
You are looking for that proverbial fine line. You want to be aggressive
enough to optimize your winnings. Optimize is the operative word! You
are not playing to maximize your winning opportunities. If you did you’d
simply play every hand, and you would go broke while winning more hands
than anyone else at the table. You are also not playing to minimize
your losing opportunities. If you did, you’d be playing nothing
but very big hands, and your opponents would soon wise up, and the only
time you’d get any action is when your opponent holds a better
hand than yours.
Learn all about the fine art that is Raising - Rasing
Part 1 / Raising
Part 2